Category: Canon ltm 35mm lens

Canon ltm 35mm lens

Discussion in ' Leica and Rangefinders ' started by jeffpolaskiJan 8, What digital camera for my LTM lenses? We retired and now are downsizing.

I thought of selling my LTM equipment, then had a second thought. What digital cameras might I buy that can use my LTM lenses 15mm, 24mm, 35mm, 50mm, 70mm? Are adapters available? Has anyone done this successfully? Or, would two adapters work? One for the lens and onf ro the camera. Since I'm downsizing, smaller and lighter than my old SLR would be great.

A simple adapter Nikon to Leica lets me use my film era Nikon lenses as well. I haven't looked into it, but I am sure there are a variety of "X" to Leica adapters that will work with the system.

Sandy VongriesJan 8, All are full frame mirrorless models and if you look at the Sony options, you will likely find a number of more inexpensive used cameras, since Sony has been at the FF mirrorless game for far longer than Canon or Nikon.

I believe there have been some performance issues related to using wide angle Leica M lenses on the new FF mirrorless models, and then again, Google will likely provide some anecdotal and perhaps some test images relating to that question. Ken KatzJan 8, Do you have a budget?

Do you want a full-frame camera, or is a crop sensor Okay? I use a Leica M9, bought 9 years ago. It is native M-Mount, full-frame, takes all of my RF coupled lenses. BrianJan 8, You certainly can't go wrong with the M9. But the A7S actually does pretty well, or so I'm told. Try and find actual photos taken with the combination you want.

canon ltm 35mm lens

There's also nothing wrong with using an APS-C sensor with those lenses. Just know that you can't use a focal length reducer with RF lenses. Does anyone know otherwise? Karim GhantousJan 8, As above, if you have the budget, Leica would be the obvious choice.

If money is tighter, Fuji feels most like a 'real' camera, but the crop sensor will lose you some width on the wide angles and check the wides will fit if they have protruding rear elements.

Last edited: Jan 9, JochenJan 9, The Jupiter 12 2. Jochen likes this. BrianJan 9, If you want your LTM wides to remain wide, you'll need a mirrorless or M camera with full-frame sensor.These two super-fast lenses have never really piqued my interest — the 0.

The gist of the tweet was that I should try the lens as I might like it too. At the time, I was a little smitten with the results, and after a bit of reading, I became quite inthralled by it. But, apparently in a moment of clarity or possibly financial shortfall I decided to stick to my guns and carry on down the Sonnar road. He subsequently bought one and came back to me with some positive thoughts. That was that, until some months later when Anil got in touch to say he like to sell his Leica gear through 35mmc — including the Canon lens.

The only noticeable mechanical issue is a very slight bit of give in the focus. Focusing in either direction, I can just feel the slightest click before the helicoid is engaged. Long throw lenses are easier to focus more precisely, but can be slower when frequently shooting between close and distant subject matter. It also has an infinity lock which is a little annoying, though could quite easily be removed.

There are of course a few spots of dust, but the glass itself is free of any of the nasties often found within lenses of the era. As is always the case, wide open is where it vignettes the most too.

Actually, the only time I really noticed it — certainly in an arguably more negative way — was when Connie asked me to take a photo of her doing a cartwheel. I knew I was too far away to take a good photo so I just focused and snapped to humour her. You can see the extent of the vignette because of the type of image it is.

Framing close for a portrait, vignetting tends to get a little lost into the bokeh. Rainbows are the name of the game. And sometimes looking at images elsewhere online some squiggly patterns in the opposite corner to where the sun hits the frame. I do try not to get carried away by bokeh — my extended thoughts on the subject can be found here.

Largely speaking, it just gets out of the way. That being said, given the right circumstances, you can find yourself with slightly edged out-of-focus specular highlights.

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One thing I have felt missing somehow is the melting transition to out-of-focus that I get with some other lenses in my collection, specifically my Sonnar lenses. Of course stopping down sees all round improvements. Of course, this is speaking objectively about what is apparently a good copy. You can find more photos taken with this lens on my flickr here.

The more people chuck me a small amount of cash each month, the more time I can spend building and improving upon it - simple as that!

Become a Patron! Alternatively, if you just enjoyed this post, or like the odd post here and there, please feel free to chuck a few pennies in the tip jar via Ko fi here:. I started taking photos at the age of 9. Since then I've taken photos for a hobby, sold cameras for a living, and for the last decade I've been a professional photographer. You can find out about all my other projects on - hamishgill. I think your flickr images with the Canon 1. I like grain though and like the feel that the lens makes.

Hiiiii Hamish, Thanks to publish my comment!Which 35mm LTM lens? I just decided to buy a 35mm LTM lens, just to see how it compares to a 50mm. Which ones are good for street? Any other choices? Leica of course haha. If you plan sticking to film you could get a Jupiter. JochenJan 9, Choices from a facebook group Current choices : 1. Voigtlander Ultron 35mm F1. Voigtlander Color Skopar 35mm F2.

A Guide To Russian LTM Lenses

A leica? The 1. Leica had two f3. There are really lots more older lenses of other brands. The Modern Voigtlander 35's are better coated and less likely to give trouble if purchased sight unseen.

Of course you need one. Traditionally, set at the hyperfocal distance, they have been considered very good for unobtrusive street photography.

Boy, you're really jumping all over the place with what seems to be unfocussed lens choices, with another 50 earlier in the week, now a Sorry, but IMHO this is insane Anyway, you should define the characteristics you are seeking from a 35 to get really good advice.

The Crons and CVs have much finer edge definition and contrast. SCLJan 9, I had an example of the Jupiter of which Jochen speaks.I have tried so many 55 to 58mm 1. Being a Sony A7 series user who pre ordered the first A7 on the day it was announced due to it being the exact configuration of a full frame camera I had been waiting for since buying a used Canon 10D in and disliked the APS-C sensor size and even when I bought a 5D in I was searching for a solution to use manual focus glass on a full frame digital sensor.

The Rokinon 35mm 1. The lens is pretty small as per most of the RF lenses and on my copy all feels good with aperture ring and focus is very smooth and free. I have it mounted on a Tinray close focus adaptor which required an M39 to Leica-M adaptor to use it. As you can see it looks pretty good as a combination. Centre frame is sharpest as expected but you can do a mild off centre composition and retain enough sharpness to make the shot. Contrast is somewhat low so focus peaking may not deliver the best results if used so I find magnification the best tool for accurate focus.

More info here at Canon Camera Museum. Wide open is where my interest peaks. Shooting fast with a Leica By Robert Boyer The first thing to get out of the way is although I am writing this with the Leica M series in mind it applies pretty much to […]. This is where old, manual focus, modestly priced, prime lenses are rediscovered and given a new […].

The Sony A7s with Canon 35mm LTM RF Lens by Paul Marbrook

Thanks for posting these images. Though I have to disagree about this lens not having any wow factor. There is a unique character in certain situations that provides a lot of wow factor. Your swimming dog image is an example. When focused close 15ft and less for a 35mm image quality can be okay wide open to very good at f2. But farther away you really need to be stopped down to f8 to be okay.

I think your images show the same thing. Though they may be better than my results. Certainly more interesting dubjects and locations.User Buyer's Guide :.

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Rare lenses and variations are generally not mentioned here. There are a ton of collector's books for that. This page is for the person who, for whatever reason--nostalgia, love, or insanity--wants to actually shoot pictures. Leica Screw Mount cameras were such a runaway success in the 30's to late 50's that many other companies made and in some cases continue to make Leica "Copies" using that mount, and of course the lenses for same. The most outstanding Leica Copy camera was the long lived line of Canon Rangefinders.

In all, hundreds of different lenses were made in LTM.

canon ltm 35mm lens

Many photogs of the 50's and 60's thought the Nikon and Canon lenses better than the Leitz, so take a close look before you pass them up. This buyer's guide will only cover the most well known of them, the ones you are most likely to encounter. Remember, this is a User's guide, not a collector's guide.

The pre-war Leitz optics left the factory uncoated. However, sometimes you find coated pre-war optics which were sent back to the factory for updating. Post-war optics are all coated. Pre-war lenses were either black, nickel, or sometimes chrome. Most Leitz LTM post war lenses are chrome versions sometimes with leatherette trim. Leitz chrome lenses from the 50's are very prone to "fogging" or "hazing.

This is especially true if they have been stored for years by the original owner in the proverbial closet. The first thing most camera dealers do with such lenses is send them to the repair shop for disassembly and cleaning. Holding the lens up to the light often doesn't tell you its true condition. Take a small flashlight and shine it through the lens in both directions. You may be in for some nasty surprises. Many of the post-war Leitz LTM lenses have soft front surfaces which can easily be scratched even with lens tissue.

Despite their reputation, Leitz lenses of the 50's generally did not age as well as their competitors from Nikon and Canon. The early Nikon "Nikkor's are chrome and very heavy.

They were generally replaced in LTM by chrome and black versions. All lenses are coated, with good hard coatings and generally have very little trouble with optics or coating. Generally the most desirable are the later and lighter black and chrome lenses. The early Canon lenses have the "Serenar" label and are chrome.

They were replaced by chrome "Canon" lenses. In most cases, the chrome Canon lenses were replaced with black versions. All except the very early pre-war versions are coated, and generally have very little trouble with the optics or coating. Generally the most desirable are the later black lenses.

Russian Lenses often contain great glass copied from Zeiss designs and very mediocre mounts and mechanics. I once bought four of them and returned three within minutes because they would not even screw onto a body!!!

The vodka ration was apparently a little too high that day on the assembly line. Buy them with a return privilege in case you got a new pet aka dog instead of a lens. Generally the earlier Russian lenses are chrome, and the later black.The Canon 85mm F1.

It is relatively hard to find and has very high reputation as a portrait lens without the softness associated with most vintage lenses.

It has similar resemblance to the older Canon mm F2 LTM lens but with improved ergonomics and optical performance.

The Nikkor 3.5 1.8 LTM and Canon 50 1.8 LTM on the Monochrom

The lens is all metal construction with design consisting of focusing and aperture ring turning simultaneously. The lens produces sharp contrasty images and renders like newer modern glass. The Lens offers a relatively fast maximum aperture at F1. When shot wide open, it produces pleasant bokeh and smooth out of focus area.

Canon 50mm f/1.4 ltm lens Review – An impressive classic gem

The image rendering is classic with natural and vibrant colours. The focusing throw on this lens is very long but very smooth at the same time.

When adjusting for aperture, since the lens has no dual helicoil mount and the aperture ring turns with focusing throw.

This can be confusing during practical use as both aperture and focus turn at the same time. The main difference in terms of image quality is when shooting both lenses wide open.

canon ltm 35mm lens

When shooting wide open, the bokeh of the Canon 85mm F1. The size and weight of the Canon 85mm F1. It is slightly larger in dimensions and around grams more in weight.

There is also a difference in applicable filter size for both lenses with 58mm for the Canon 85mm F1. The lens has great colour rendition and produces contrasty images.

Build Quality The Canon 85mm F1. Image Quality The Canon 85mm F1. Practical Use The Canon 85mm F1. Canon 85mm F1.At this point, it will be clear to regular readers that Your Humble Filmosaur has settled into the Leica Thread Mount LTM rangefinder as the basis for his go-to 35mm photography kit.

The Canon P that has contributed so much here is the standard body, for a which a growing heap of lenses has begun to accumulate.

Clearly, the last thing I need is more lenses…. So obviously, I got another lens. The rationalization, er, reason, for this is primarily that I felt that I could not rely on the Jupiter to produce reliable, consistent results, especially with color film.

Not good.

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If I was to have a 35mm lens in regular rotation, something else would have to be acquired. The first is a simpler design with a mediocre reputation; I would have settled for it at the right price, but I knew I could do better.

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A nice 2. I lacked sufficient willpower to resist. Since the P has 35mm framelines in the viewfinder, the accessory finder that came with the lens is not really necessary in typical use. It may, however, find itself paradoxically atop my FED-2, spotting for the Jupiter Just found this while searching for info on the Canon 35mm lens.

I was hoping the problem was something as simple as the paint being chipped too. I was even more hopeful when I opened it up and saw that the paint was chipped. But alas, I touched up the paint, and the internal reflection is still there.

I can see a spot where two of the elements in the rear group are bonded together where it looks like one is not polished all the way out to the edge — I suspect that is contributing significantly to the problem. You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account. You are commenting using your Twitter account. You are commenting using your Facebook account.

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canon ltm 35mm lens

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